Welcome to my travel journal. I’m a sailor and photographer, and I love sharing my adventures from around the world!
Charleston SC is the quintessential Southern city, known for its historic streets, creative food scene, and quirky beach towns. I visited Charleston on a whim, 9 years ago, and fell in love with the city, harbor, and - most of all - the people. Here are some of my favorite spots, if you are looking to spend a few days (or years!) in this little corner of the world I call home.
3 destinations to explore
The Battery and Rainbow Row - catch the morning light at Whitepoint Gardens, an oasis of live oaks covered in Spanish moss, and follow the curve of the harbor to a colorful series of historic row houses. Don’t miss the pineapple fountain!
South of Broad - spend an afternoon wandering this historic residential neighborhood where horse-drawn carriages trundle down cobblestone streets. Quench your thirst at the Blind Tiger after you’ve had your fill of this photographer’s paradise.
King Street - spend a few hours strolling down King Street from Spring to Market and you’ll find the trendiest boutiques, world-class restaurants, and lively nightlife in the heart of downtown. Grab a coffee and head to Marion Square on Saturdays to peruse the local wares and produce at the farmers market.
East Bay Street - Choice restaurants and fine cocktails line this street in the French Quarter neighborhood, a stone’s throw from the Charleston City Market. Sample the meat sweats at Poogan’s Smokehouse if you’re in the mood for some good barbeque, or enjoy the tacos and margs at Minero. Go for a walking house and garden tour, or if you’re in the mood for some spooky chills, try a ghost tour.
Upper Neck - The secret’s out about this barbeque and brewery hotspot! Here you’ll find the Bermuda Triangle of barbecue with Lewis, HomeTeam, and Rodney Scotts. If you’re looking for healthier fare, take a picnic basket and spread out in Hampton Park or have a light lunch at Huriyali or Park Cafe. There has also been an explosion of craft brewing lately, with a ton of local breweries calling this area home including long-time faves Revelry, Edmunds Oast, and Palmetto along with an assortment of newcomers to the scene.
Folly Beach - Our laidback, funky beach town and surfer hangout with a lively main street. Grab brunch at Lost Dog Cafe and soak up some rays in view of Morris Island lighthouse, then when you’re feeling hungry again, try one of the eclectic curry bowls at Jack of Cups Saloon or a slice of pizza at Woody’s. To round out the perfect beach day, walk down the pier with an ice cream cone from the drugstore.
Sullivan's Island - A refined and family friendly beach community with top notch eateries. Try your luck at finding some sharks’ teeth on the beach. Burgers at Poe’s Tavern are a must, but get there early or be prepared for a long wait! The Obstinate Daughter is another great spot featuring Italian comfort food inspired by the sea. Stop at Shem Creek for a lively scene on the weekend.
Other beaches in the area: Isle of Palms, Kiawah, Seabrook
Magnolia Plantation - Spend a few hours wandering through the beauty, magic, and rich cultural heritage of these romantic-style gardens. Discover sunbathing alligators and nesting herons on the Audubon swamp walk. Gaze out on sweeping river views from the observation tower. The camellias bloom in winter months, and don’t miss the azaleas blooming in the spring! General admission to the gardens is $15-$20. Additional tours are priced separately. link
Other plantations include Middleton Place, Charlestowne Landing, and Boone Hall
I’ve grouped these activities and adventures into loose categories, incorporating places of interest from all major Charleston destinations mentioned above. My advice is to pick your top 5 and craft your trip itinerary from there.
Fort Sumpter Tour
Kayak/Paddle + Day Drink on Shem Creek
Bike/Walk South of Broad
Shark Tooth Hunting
Dolphin Spotting at Lighthouse Inlet
Go Sailing or Boating in Charleston Harbor
Walk/Run Ravenel Bridge and Waterfront Memorial Park in Mt. Pleasant
Wander the Gardens and Search for Wildlife at Magnolia Plantation
Visit Angel Oak Tree on John’s Island
Take a Sunset Yoga Class on Folly ($10) link
Go on a Spooky Ghost Tour
Comedy Show at Theatre 99
Candle making class at Candlefish
Local Brewery Tour
Art Museum or Historic Home Tour
Walk/Run the Ravenel Bridge and Waterfront Memorial Park
Wander South of Broad to Rainbow Row
Watch the sunset from Pitt Street Bridge
Spend a few hours or all day at the beach
skinny dip - downtown
drift boutique - mt pleasant
ocean surf shop - folly beach
maris dehart - downtown
v2v - downtown
blush - west ashley
two cumberland - downtown
Second Sunday on King - opens king street to pedestrian traffic only, live music, vendors, outdoor dining at your favorite king street restaurants
First Friday Art Walk - Art galleries open up their doors to the public with complimentary wine and cheese
Farmers Market on Saturdays - Marion Square
Moonlight Mixers - Dance underneath the stars to oldies and beach music on the Folly Beach Pier
High Water Festival - a music, culture and food festival on beautiful Riverfront Park in North Charleston
Spoleto Festival - Charleston’s premiere performing arts festival bringing renowned + emerging artists from all over the world in dance, theatre, jazz, and more.
Charleston is such a foodie’s paradise! There are countless options for great dining here, and new concepts are always popping up. Charleston City Paper does a great weekly newsletter that keeps us locals up-to-date on all the fabulous happenings in the food and beverage industry here in town. And even so, I find myself coming back again and again to a few places close to my heart which I’m sharing below, along with a map of all their locations. I also included my list of restaurants I’ve been meaning to try - so if you go to one let me know what you think!
Huriyali - Perfect neighborhood cafe for acai & buddha bowls with a garden patio
Lost Dog Cafe - Cozy Folly Beach staple, breakfast and sandwiches, dog wall of fame
Marina Variety Store - southern-style breakfast, seafood at this locals' waterfront diner serving since 1963
Millers All Day - serving breakfast all day, try this 60’s-inspired diner's fried chicken biscuits
Obstinate Daughter - elegant country-style raw bar with pizza and pasta
Callie’s Hot Little Biscuit - open for breakfast and late night. the most inventive biscuits you’ll ever have!
Goat. Sheep. Cow. North - delicious sandwiches, soups, salads, and more in an elegant dining space in the Upper Peninsula neighborhood
Brown Dog Deli - best sandwiches and close to South of Broad & French Quarter
Basic Kitchen - healthy, plant-based meals and juices. Super cute interior
The Harbinger Cafe - made from scratch, locally sourced breakfast, lunch and baked goods
Pages Okra Grill - quintessential lowcountry cuisine in Mount Pleasant
Jack of Cups - A Folly gem, known for their Asian inspired fare featuring curry dishes and vegan options
Xiao Bao Biscuit - vietnamese soul food in a converted gas station on Rutledge Ave
Leon’s Oyster Shop - best fried chicken
Little Jack’s Tavern - old-school diner with great salads and burgers
Drop In Deli - A Folly locals’ watering hole with a solid sandwich menu including the best gyros
Pier 101 - Cheery, 50’s themed diner on the Folly beachfront. Take a drink or an ice cream cone with you and walk down the pier!
I always ask visitors what type of food they’re in the mood for, since that helps narrow down the endless options when it comes to where to go for dinner! For your first visit in town, these are some of the places I’d recommend by category.
Seafood: Hank’s Seafood, Bowen's Island, Fish House, Chubby Fish, The Jetty, The Darling Oyster Bar
Italian: Indaco, Mondo’s, Obstinate Daughter
Tapas/Spanish: Barsa, Estadio, Malagon, Laurel
Pizza: Mellow Mushroom, Woody’s Pizza, Baker & Brewer
Mexican: Santi’s, Sol, Fuel
Asian/Indian: Xiao Bao Biscuit, Jack Rabbit Filly, Tu
BBQ: Poogan’s Smokehouse, Hometeam BBQ, Lewis BBQ
Burgers: Shelter, Bohemian Bull, Loggerhead's, Poe’s Tavern
Steak: Halls Chophouse, Oak
American: Macintosh, R. Kitchen, F.I.G.
Huriyali
Basic Kitchen
Gnome Cafe*
Dellz Uptown*
Butcher and Bee
Bakehouse
One Broad
Black Tap
Vintage Cafe
Citrus Club
Container Bar
Blind Tiger
Faculty Lounge
Amen St Raw Bar
Revelry
Edmunds Oast
Red’s on Shem Creek
Little Palm
Cocktail Club
Gin Joint
Gilded Horn
The Griffon
Surf Bar (Folly)
Chico Feo (Folly)
Lowlife (Folly)
Kaminsky’s
Jeni’s Ice Cream
Sugar Bakeshop
Some absolute hidden gems, the food is honestly delicious and I couldn’t NOT include them in my guide :)
Mexican - Tiki Taco
Italian - Mondo’s
Sushi - Osaka
Thai - Thai Elephants
There are many options to choose from when deciding where to stay in Charleston. You’ll have the run of the gamut, from laid-back airbnbs and vacation rentals to boutique and luxury hotels. I recommend making downtown your home base. Downtown is very centrally located, and within 30 mins drive of the beaches and the plantations. You can get away without renting a car, but you will be limited to exploring downtown Charleston. If you really want a taste of the Lowcountry, rent a car and explore the surrounding barrier islands, and take a day trip up one of the river roads to visit the historic plantations and gardens. If you plan on staying for a week or more, I recommend breaking up your stay, staying a few nights downtown and a few nights off the peninsula, on the beach or one of the barrier islands nearby to get the best sense of all the different environments of Charleston.
Best Deal: Hotels in Mount Pleasant or West Ashley will have the best deals, but are a 10 minute drive from downtown where all the action is
Splurge: Zero George, The Dewberry, The Grand Bohemian, Andrew Pinkney Inn, The Restoration
Chelsea Chen of Chelchen did some great reviews of the places she stayed at while she was visiting Charleston, and I can attest to the fact that the breakfast buffet and the happy hour at Andrew Pinkney Inn were phenomenal and sported epic views of Charleston’s skyline.
If you do have a car in Charleston… I know when I first moved here, I scoured the internet for the hidden meanings of our parking signs! Alas, none were found, but here are some tidbits I’ve picked up after almost a decade living here.
Skip the meters - Park in the city garages downtown. If you are staying for more than 2 hours a lot of the city garages have a $5 flat rate in the evenings and on weekends, and you’ll come out ahead.
There is a city-wide ordinance that prohibits feeding the meters. You can get a $25-$40 parking ticket for staying in the same spot too long!
If you are driving around downtown, heed the one way street signs and parking signs! Many of the residential parking spaces you’ll see have signs that say you can park there for 1-2 hrs. Don’t block the driveways.
Free parking is available downtown on the outer rim of South Battery Drive by the water.
Free parking is available on Folly Beach + Sullivans Island past the paid parking lots, on the side of the road; just follow all normal rules of the road + posted signs (like make sure all your tires are completely off the road, and don’t park on the wrong side of the road!). Make your beach day ticket free: https://www.follybeach.com/parking-on-folly-beach/
Charleston is a great home base for some Southern-style weekend trips or longer road trip destinations. While I’ve listed out 16 awesome destinations below, I still haven’t made it to each one. As I go, I will update this space with photos, tips, and stories. So here is my list of top destinations and cities that will make for an unforgettable weekend or the next must-see stop on your Southeastern Road Trip!
How Far: 4 hrs
Fall in Clemson means football, Smokin Pig bbq, and apple picking! One of my fave weekend warrior destinations from Charleston.
How Far: 45 mins
Heritage and Wildlife Preserve, Gothic Revival architecture, 2.8 miles of undeveloped shoreline and ‘boneyard’ beach.
How Far: 6 hrs
America’s most-visited National Park. Appalachian Trail, Mt. Leconte.
How Far: 1 hr
Historic antebellum architecture, beautiful shoreline, exquisite dining, golf and other outdoor adventures.
How Far: 2 hrs
Coastal city featuring historic pre-civil war mansions shaded by oaks and avenues where horse-drawn carriages pass by.
How Far: 10 hrs
Tour the national monuments and Smithsonian museums. Explore historic Georgetown, the cute cobblestoned streets of Alexandria, VA, and the trendy restaurants by U and 14th.
How Far: 4 hrs
The gateway to the Blue Ridge Mountains, outdoor lover’s paradise. Local craft breweries, vibrant arts scene, the Biltmore Estate.
How Far: 5 hrs
Clear, cool water, natural freshwater springs. Snorkel, dive, kayak and swim this extensive cave system on the Santa Fe River.
How Far: 4 hrs
Watch the sunset from Jockey’s Ridge - the East Coast’s highest sand dune, view the historic Cape Hatteras lighthouse and herds of wild horses.
How Far: 8.5 hrs
Legendary country music hotspot, Nashville Hot Chicken, cute coffee shops and a creative community spilling out at the seams.
How Far: 10 hrs
Best-kept secret of the East. This ski resort in West Virginia has a reasonably priced motherload of fresh pow when you hit it right!
How Far: 10 hrs
Art Deco eye candy, South Beach’s posh hotels and nightlife, humble Coral Gables and Coconut Grove, a touch of Cuba in Little Havana, and a haven for deep sea fishing, golf, and tennis.
How Far: 12 hrs
The “Big Easy” is a colorful, lively city full of live music, art, unique food scene, culture, and beignets. Explore Bourbon Street, the French Quarter, and the Garden District. Mardi Gras heartland.
How Far: 4.5 hrs
Oldest city in America. Spanish colonial architecture and Atlantic Ocean beachfront.
How Far: 5 hrs
Roaring waterfalls, a 1,000 ft gorge, camping, and hiking trails.
How Far: 6 hrs
Honest to goodness theme park and water park extravaganza. Larger-than-life restaurants. Great for families and really just about everyone, if you can stand the crowds!