East African Safari Pt. 1 - July 2022

Oct 30

Oct 30 East African Safari Pt. 1 - July 2022

Visiting the vast African landscape should not be a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Celebrating a big milestone (my 30th birthday!) seemed like the perfect reason to launch into the planning of a magical safari experience in Kenya and Tanzania. Here are the highlights and essential take-aways I learned from our trip.

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Trip Logistics

Trip Dates

July 12th – 27th, 2022

Locations

Nairobi, Kenya

Selenkay Conservancy - Porini Amboseli Camp, southeast of Nairobi near Mt. Kilimanjaro
Olare Motorogi Conservancy - Porini Lion Camp, southwest of Nairobi near Maasai Mara and Tanzania border
Zanzibar, Tanzania

When To Go

We chose this time of year to go to Kenya because it is a great time to see the Great Migration in the Mara and celebrate my 30th birthday which is in July! Plus the flights were on sale for $600 roundtrip from CHS-NBO and the safari lodges were extending resident rates to friends/family, so we got a great deal!

Before Travel

Renew passports

Visit Travel Clinic for health info: Yellow Fever, Typhoid pills, update vaccinations, Travalan, Malaria pills
Traveler’s Insurance
Currency Exchange ($34,000 Ksh ~ $300 USD for tips, transport, etc)
eVisa for Kenya and Tanzania
Global Haven Covid Test Validation

Getting There

We flew CHS Charleston, SC → ATL Atlanta, GA → CDG Paris, FR → Nairobi, KE. Various local airlines to safari camps - Yellow Wings, PrecisionAir, AirKenya

Safari Cost

Costs may vary, check rates here. All-in, we spent about $3,200 per person for the full two-week trip.

Baby elephant with her mama at Selenkay Conservancy outside Amboseli National Park in Kenya. It was incredible watching this family of elephants socializing around the watering hole.

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Safari Conservancy Model

Gamewatchers is a long-standing, trustworthy local safari tour operator based in East Africa. They own and operate a collection of small, eco-friendly safari camps that offer an award-winning, intimate wildlife experience.

Locally owned and operated for over 30 years
Internationally recognized by National Geographic and World Travel Awards for responsible tourism
Supports local communities and wildlife conservation
Experienced guides who are certified in eco-tourism and wildlife conservation
Excellent value and incredible hospitality!

Porini Camps are located within privately owned wildlife conservancies. They offer the perfect safari experience for animal lovers who prefer exploring the wild landscape away from the crowds of tourists. Porini guides provide a fountain of knowledge at every turn in the road atop custom open-air 4x4 safari vehicles and escorted nature walks. Working side-by-side with the local Kenyan communities, these small yet exclusive Porini Safari Camps enable the preservation of the land for wildlife habitat through this low-impact, eco-tourism financial model.

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Porini Camp Accommodation

Porini Amboseli Camp is situated in privately owned Selenkay Conservancy, which is an important area for animals moving in and out of Amboseli National Park. With just 10 guest tents, this camp is known for its top-notch hospitality and eco-friendliness. Each low-impact canvas tent features a comfortable living area, king size bed, solar powered electric lighting and ensuite bathrooms with shower, sink and flush toilet. There are no fences surrounding the property and I COULDN’T BELIEVE MY EYES when I looked outside to see a family of elephants grazing amongst the trees just steps beyond our tent.

The camp is full board, which means all game drives, guides, escorted nature walks, community visits, food, drinks, snacks and alcohol are included in the price. Meals are served family-style in a mess-tent, which means the guests are able to interact with each other. We enjoy meeting new friends from all over the world and sharing stories of our daily adventures over delicious 3-course dinners.

Safari Notes

Day 1 · Exploring Nairobi, Kenya 🦒

So. This is Africa. Our friends picked us up from the airport in Nairobi after 24 hrs of traveling and multiple flights from Charleston. We’re staying at their house in Nairobi for the first day/night of our trip before heading out to our safari.

We slept in, had a late breakfast, and then went to the Giraffe Center to feed Rothschild Giraffes! We saw about 9 giraffes at the Center, which is a conservation center.

Day 2 · Adjusting to Safari Life at Porini Amboseli Camp 🐘

Our guides greet us the moment we step foot off the plane, and they are paired with us for our entire stay at each Porini Safari Camp. We love sitting in the seats just behind the guides for optimal views and hearing the guides’ stories and incredible knowledge of the land. Pro Tip: Each seat comes with a flannel-lined poncho for chillier drives.

We feel so fortunate to have some truly incredible wildlife encounters over the course of our safari. Within the first 15 minutes of jumping off the plane, our guides Edison and Daniel spot 2 cheetah brothers lounging in the bush after a meal. Before we get to camp, we spot a male lion, greet an old tusker, see giraffe, ostrich, monkeys, zebras, nesting eagles, and more.

After we settle into camp, we go back out on an escorted walk with Maasai warriors to the nearby village to learn about the local culture and way of life. I definitely felt out of my comfort zone, but I also sensed how proud the villagers were to be able to share their traditions and customs with us. One of the other guests at camp, an older Australian named Barry, was blessed by the local warriors in a ceremony that honors the rite of passage for the elderly. This traditional ceremony felt unique and authentic in a way most visitors don’t witness.

Amboseli National Park 🐘

On our second full day in Selenkay Conservancy, we take an all-day excursion into Amboseli National Park.

Amboseli is famous for its large herds of elephants and beautiful views of Mount Kilimanjaro, the largest free standing mountain in the world. The dry, arid and dusty plains contrast with lush swamps, providing sanctuary for many species of animals. Wildlife roaming the area include elephants, giraffe, zebra, cheetah, hippo, wildebeest, flamingo, and many other species of birds.

To protect the eco-system, wildlife, and tourists, the park enforces several rules for visitors:

Remain in your vehicle at all times, except at designated sites like Observation Hill
Always keep on the road; vehicles are not allowed to go off-road
Give animals the right of way; do not harass wildlife

Day 3 · Amboseli National Park Excursion 🐘

Early wake-up and breakfast following a full day game drive in Amboseli National Park, in the camp’s open-sided 4×4 safari vehicle. Picnic lunch in the park at Observation Hill w/ our new friends from camp. Return to camp for dinner and overnight. Night game drive to look for nocturnal animals such as aardvarks, serval cats, caracals, bat-eared foxes, African wild cats, and other species.

Olare Motorogi Conservancy

Olare Motorogi Conservancy formed out of a partnership between 300 local landowners and five tourism operations, including Porini Lion Camp.

Porini Lion Camp is located on the banks of the Ntiakatiak River within the Conservancy, where guests frequently hear the sounds of hippos mating and lions calling at night! The camp is situated in close proximity to the Maasai Mara National Reserve where the big cats roam. With just ten guest tents, Porini Lion Camp ensures guests have that quintessentially intimate game-viewing experience.

The high-quality, spacious tents are tastefully furnished and each has solar-powered lighting, ensuite facilities (with hot shower and flush toilet) and the porch is the perfect place to have a cup of hot tea after a long game drive.

Game drives are in the same type of custom off-road (4×4) safari vehicles with a driver and a certified spotter to ensure the best possible game-viewing. The drives within the Conservancy ensure guests experience the African safari without the cumbersome amount of tourist vehicles that frequent the national parks.

Day 4 · Transit to Olare Motorogi Conservancy ✈️

Early breakfast and check out from Amboseli Camp
08h30 departure arriving Wilson airport at 09h10.
Connect to Air Kenya flight departing at 10h30
11h10 arrival and transfer to Porini Lion Camp, arriving for lunch.
Take an afternoon game drive in Olare Motorogi Conservancy, stopping at a scenic point for a sundowner.
Continue on a night game drive in search of nocturnal animals.
Dinner and overnight at camp

A Magical Balloon Safari

Today we ordered an extra early wake-up call for a once in a lifetime experience. This year, for my 30th birthday, all I asked for was a chance to fly in a hot air balloon over the rolling plains of the Maasai Mara at sunrise.

The balloon safari is definitely a highlight of the trip. We float feet above the plains animals, and the air is filled with other balloons. We drift for over an hour, crossing the Mara River twice, until our pilot locates our drop site and we end the morning with a champagne toast and breakfast on the hilltop.

We see giraffe, herds of roaming zebra and wildebeest, hippos traversing the river, and wave to the people in a camp as we pass by overhead.

After breakfast our Porini guides pick us up and we’re off to witness the great herds of wildebeest and zebra make the crossing of the Mara. We didn’t see it this time, but the sheer number of animals was astounding! We also lucked out for the second day in a row spotting all three big cats. 2 leopards, 2 lioness, 3 cheetahs.

Day 5 · Balloon Safari and Great Migration in Maasai Mara 🦁

Awake before dawn with a cup of tea before the driver picks us up to head out to the hot air balloon launch site. Float above the rolling African hills and rivers. Champagne breakfast on the hilltop overlooking the Great Migration. Depart on a full day safari to look for the Big Five in the Masai Mara National Reserve with picnic lunch. Return to camp in the late afternoon. Dinner and overnight at camp.

Day 6 · Last Full Day Exploring Olare Motorogi Conservancy 🦁

Sleep in after a long day of driving yesterday. After breakfast in camp, enjoy a morning nature walk escorted by Maasai warriors. Return to camp for lunch. Join an afternoon game drive in the Conservancy searching for the three big cats – stopping for a sundowner with the lions – then a night game drive as you head back to camp for dinner and overnight.

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Highlights From Our Game Drives

On our very first game drive in the Mara, we are lucky enough to spot all three big cats: lions, cheetahs and the elusive leopard!
A momma cheetah with her three cubs stalking a herd of impala
A kill; some lionesses took down a small gazelle
A leopard finishing dinner high up in an acacia tree, hyenas prowling at the base
Special encounter w/ 3 cheetah siblings eating their evening meal when a solo hyena shows up and steals their scraps. Luckily they eat fast and just get up + walk away. Incredible seeing the interaction between two species in the wild.
Watching a leopard jump out of the tree in search of prey. Leopards are elusive creatures and it is extremely rare to catch a glimpse of one hidden away in the brush. To see one not only in full view, but in action was truly incredible and a highlight of our game drives.
Saving the lion cubs from playing a dangerous game with a black cobra. We came across some cubs that encountered the poisonous snake and were attempting to play with it. New mother lioness didn’t realize the potential danger. Our guides managed to distract the cubs, allowing the snake to move on.

Escorted Walking Safari

After four days filled with the amazing sights of the safari, our bodies are feeling a bit tired from the long, bumpy drives. We opt to spend our morning outside on a walking excursion to stretch our legs! We are escorted by a knowledgeable Maasai guide as well as an armed guard for safety.

The guide takes us up the hill outside of camp directly into the midst of a tower of giraffes munching on acacia leaves. The giraffe didn’t seem to mind us and gently continued on with their breakfast while giving us an odd glance every so often. Our guide pointed out the different animal tracks and taught us how to identify their scat.

Walking along the plains gives us a chance to appreciate the finer details of the land that can be missed when driving around searching for the big game animals. Our guide identified numerous species of birds, colorful insects and butterflies. We never felt in danger, but our observant escorts reacted swiftly to move us far away from a Cape buffalo roaming too close.